Karratha

On Sunday, after a swim in the ocean, then the pool, and the market and town beach, I left Broome. On the way out I called in at 12 Mile Cafe for some fruit and ice cream (incredible ice cream).   I enjoyed my stay at Beaches and met heaps of lovely people.  I stopped at a free camp spot a few hundred ks out of Broome.  It was a huge area and a few tents and caravans there.  In the evening there were little fires alight and I chatted to 3 backpackers (one from Canada, one from The Netherlands and one from France).  They were toasting marshmallows - and having them with chocolate and biscuits.   There was also a snake around someone was chasing - I think the snake survived.  I also met a couple that have been travelling and working for 12 years (with their pet budgie).  After a good night's sleep on the road again - I must say the next 600 ks is not the most interesting landscape.  I managed to get radio reception and it made a difference being able to listen to ABC RN.  I arrived in Karratha about 5.30 pm very tired and  very happy to see Tom and Petra.  The next morning Petra and I went with the dogs for a walk to the water (It is sort of a beach with mangroves) which is not far away.   We met Julie at the airport last night (she had been in Perth).  It is Julie and Brian's house and very kind of them to let me stay so I can have time with Tom and Petra.  I met Julie and Brian when I visited Tom at Lyndon Station in 2009.  Julie was the cook there (and a very good one!) and has since married Brian and made Australia her home.  

more pics

Horizontal Falls

A little owl that resides at Beaches of Broome, Cable Beach, during the day

Cape Leveque

On the little plane Kimberley Aviation

Up Up and Away

Just an update.  8.30 pm last night I got a call to say the morning whale watching cruise was cancelled (not enough people booked I think).  Afternoon cruises full.  So I was disappointed as you have a possibility of seeing them up close.  Anyway I went to the market this morning with Denise and Elizabeth and saw a market stall advertising flights to Cape Leveque and Horizontal Falls and I just booked it and it left at 11.30 am this morning!  Talk about spontaneous.  I went and it was amazing - 5 in a little plane including the pilot who was probably 23.  Fish and chips at the cafe at Cape Leveque - Coolajmon (or something).  Anyway I am going to hop in the shower and out for a drink.

And then

Anyway where was I.  I really didn't get a chance to finish my last post as too much to do here!!  And people to talk to and swims at the beach and coffee in Broome.  Well I booked into the back packers and so much better than being in a hot van.  They let me book in early on Wednesday so had breaky and met two lovely women from Melbourne so chatted to them and organised to go the the open air cinema that night.  I had a look around Broome on Wednesday and checked out the shops and came back to Cable Beach  and had a swim.  Very misty and foggy on the Wednesday.  So much humidity but it wasn't hot and you couldn't see the sun.  That night at the backpackers there was a $10 BBQ.  Burger, sausage, coleslaw and salad and bread and a beer!   Then off to the movies and saw The Sapphires which was fun - it didn't start till 8.45 pm so by the time we got back and had a cuppa I got back to my room late and felt like a naughty schoolgirl and probably woke up my room mates.  I find backpackers so interesting - especially here when there is a huge age range - from 18 - 90 years old  sometimes.    Everyone has a story and is travelling or holidaying or working.  Some people have no fixed abode and are free as birds to work and go where ever.  I got up early on Thursday (after not getting much sleep) and got the bus to Point Gantheume (I am positive that is not how to spell it) and got off there to do the walk back to Cable Beach (about 5 k)  The tide was low and it was beautiful and had my feet in the water most of the time).  That day I caught up with Lucy Payne and we had a bite of lunch together in Broome and a look at the shops.   Back to Cable Beach and more socialising.  I walked to Cable Beach (so many people go done and it is a beautiful thing to do)  to look at the sunset and did Broome Cam (phoned Tom) and then back to cook dinner - I did the brown rice salad.  I had a good sleep last night and slept in till 7.30 am (as everyone in the room this morning).  I have been waking up at 6 am every morning.   I drove some people to the airport and then bought a new card for my camera and then to the beach for a swim.  The water was such a beautiful colour.  I bumped into the girls from Melbourne, Denise and Elizabeth, in the surf  and we organised to meet up at Matsu's  as there is supposed to be a band on this afternoon.  Whale watching tomorrow and then I might stay another night before heading off to see Tom.  
Thank you so much for comments.  It is great to hear what is happening back home and to see who is out there.  

Still Broome

Broome is such an easy place to chill out.  On Wednesday I decided to leave my very sunny (too sunny and no shade) spot in the Palm Grove camp ground and booked in at Beaches of Broome (a flash packers - well maybe not as flash as it was 3 years ago).  It was the same price as the caravan park and plus free breaky and a nice pool and walk from the beach.  A change to get out of the van.

Broome

After talking the fellow campers at Fitzroy Crossing River Lodge Park I was told to do the 8 am river cruise of Geike Gorge as it was very hot during the day.  I drove there early and it was very busy as two bus tours had also arrived to do the 8 am cruise.  They use 2 barge like boats connected and no roof covering so it was extremely warm even that time of the morning.  It is a stunning gorge and saw heaps of little crocodiles (freshwater ones).  It is amazing what grows on the rocks.  Native fig trees with roots that go through sandstone to the water.  Also you can see where the water level rises to in the wet season.  It would be amazing to see what it is like up here in the wet.  So many towns get cut off and roads closed in the season.   There wasn't a lot to do at the park and too hot to do a long walk so I decided to drive to Broome.  I stopped at a roadside rest stop for a bite of lunch and talked to some of the other campers there.  They had pulled up to stay the night and it was only midday.  One person even was cooking corned silverside in a pot on the barbie.  This couple had sold up everything and they were on the road until they decided not to be.  They said their home address was "Australia".  I had met a few people that had opted for a life on the road.  I find the drives between places seem to go forever and this time I had some talking book audio cassettes to listen to that a kind couple gave me.  I didn't get to Broome till 5 pm last night and was lucky to get a spot at a Caravan Park near Cable Beach.  There was a cafe nearby and I got some fish and chips for dinner.  Considering how big the park is it is very quiet.  Off to the beach this morning.

A few more pics

 

Sunset on the Ord River at Kununurra

me at Purnululu (Bungle Bungles)

Geike Gorge

A bull at the Bungle Bungle caravan park

along the way

I ended up leaving Kununurra on Saturday afternoon.  I had a lovely morning at the market in the park and bought some fresh vegies and a frozen mango puree thing in a cup.  So nice.  Also some spring rolls.  I booked for a tour of the Bungle Bungles so I had to drive to 250 k from Kununurra to the caravan park at the Bungle Bungle's turn off.  The park is at Mabel Downs station and they take you in on a 4WD bus and it takes 2 hours to do 50 k to the National Park and I can't remember how many river crossings.  Then 2 hours walking (3 walks) then lunch and back on the bus for an hour's drive to the other end of the range and another 1 hour walk and back on the bus for 2 1/2 hours back to campground.  The scenery is amazing but it was very hot and it was a long drive back and the road is so rough.  Dinner (pea and ham soup and damper and beef stew and rice) that night was included so glad I didn't have to do anything!  What sat by a fire and then had dinner in a big tent.   This morning up early (as the sun gets ups early) and drove to Fitzroy Crossing.  I have had a swim in the pool - very nice.  Tomorrow off to Geike Gorge.

Kununurra

When I arrived yesterday afternoon I was so hot and tired and just wanted to sleep and leave.  However after deciding I needed to do some laundry I booked into a site in the shade and did some washing (it only took a few hours to dry) then a swim (nobody in the pool as they think the water is too cold - it was so refreshing).  In the afternoon I drove down the road to the "Hoochery" where they make rum and liquers and had a taste of rum and then a coffee and rum cake (it was delicious) then on to the sandalwood factory.  They are growing Indian sandalwood here as stocks are being depleted in Indian and Asian.  They haven't harvested yet (I don't know how long they have to wait) but are using Australian sandalwood to make products in the south of WA.  I went to an art gallery down town and they had some amazing work there and the guy explained the difference with some paintings done in acrylics and other is sand and ochre.  Sunset is early here so then off to a restaurant called The Pump House which is on the river and I had a beer and watched the sunset.  I left by 5.20 and the sun had set.  In Kakadu the sunset around 6.30 pm.   I am feeling very relaxed but had better get dinner on.  The locals are passionate about their community and have told me many places to go and how I must stay longer.  So I might. 

So hot

I am in Kununurra and it is the hottest I have been since I left - I just hope it is a bit cooler when the sun goes down.  Now on WA time.    Staying here the night and will decide if I am going to do a Bungle Bungle tour.


Update - Myrtle had a fan belt replaced (bought three belts from Repco but only one was right and glad it was the belt that was stuffed!)  We waited till 6 pm on the Monday to get it fixed.   By the time we went to the supermarket to get food it was 7 pm and most of the campgrounds were closed but one woman took pity on us at the Boab Caravan Park and we got  a spot in there so very lucky.    A funny little camp ground but very neat and tidy as I think it has new owners and had a bit of a paint and fix up.  Nothing cheap though as $25 a night unpowered.   On Tuesday morning we headed off to Mataranka.  I had been there on the way up north and loved it so it was only a 100k down the road.  I wanted to try out my underwater camera.  We got to Bitter Springs about lunch time and went twice around the float down the river to the bridge circuit.  It is such a wonderful spot!   I think the springs must have a health benefit as I felt like a kid!  Then a drive down the road to the Mataranka homestead and then out to Kelsey National Park.  The spot was Malumjarka (or something I am too hot to look it up) and a beautiful camp area right near the river and $6.60 pp pn.  Hot showers and toilets and wood for fires.  It was warm but once the sun went down it was nice to sit by the fire as it cooled off a bit.  Next morning we went for a walk by the Roper River and it was stunning.  I didn't swim (there are freshwater crocs which are supposed to be OK but a guy I met last night said someone told him there are bull sharks in the river -  oooo!).   We drove back to  Katherine in the morning and Kathy got the greyhound bus back to Darwin.  It was great having Kathy's company for a short time on my adventures.  More fun than doing things on your own.   I drove on to Victoria River Road House camp ground.  A beautiful spot and only $10 pp powered site.  I cooked up some sweet potato and a bit of barramundi I bought in Katherine.    I drove to the WA border and had to give up any vegetables, fruit and honey.  I had a banana, 3 mandarins and a kiwi fruit for lunch!
I drove into have a look at Lake Argyle which is huge and then on to Kununurra. 
A great little campground at Hidden Valley.  Very green with hills around.

more pics

I plucked a wild goose on the Animal Tracks tour in Kakadu (after Patsy showing us how to do it)

Patsy and Rachel cooking the geese in bark and leaves while the sunsets.  I thought I had straightened this one!!!

I think I look pretty daggy!   On my kayaking trip down Katherine Gorge with Kathy

happy hour and dinner at Katherine Gorge with Kathy (and Myrtle)

Katherine. Monday

I am sitting in the shade in the breeze waiting for Myrtle to have some belts changed.  Hoping all goes well and won't be here for too long.
I found out by blog that Kathy Bailey (from Beechworth) was in Darwin so contacted her and she caught the greyhound bus down to Katherine on Saturday at lunch time for a few days.  I picked her up and we went to the local market for some supplies then headed out to Katherine Gorge.  We booked a kayak for the next morning and were lucky to get one as they were nearly booked out.  We had a lovely meal - baramundi and salad and a few bubbles in a glass - cooked at the campground.  And there was a guy singing around the swimming pool who we could hear from the van.   Next morning down to the gorge and hired our kayak (along with many student teachers from Deakin at Warnambool who were up here to have a stint at teaching at some communities nearby).  It was cool in the morning and a bit windy so we had a head wind so it was hard going paddling up the gorge.  It was stunning with the layered rock cliff faces going up and looking out for crocs in the river.  We got out at the end of the gorge and walked over to see the second gorge.  We were very wet from sitting in the kayak and decided not to swim.  Then as we had to have the kayak back by 12 we head back down the gorge which was so much easier as we had the wind behind up and leisurely paddled back admiring the beaches (and croc nests) along the way and the birdlife.  There are freshwater crocs but also salties have made their way down here during the wet which is a bit of a worry.   A wonderful adventure and something that I probably would not have done on my own so thank you Kathy.  All the fellow campers are on for a chat and talk about where they have been and where they are going.  We had another night at the Gorge and Kathy cooked up a storm with potatoes, onions, tomato and feta - delicious.  This morning we came into town for a coffee and then out to Katherine Hot Springs for a dip - so relaxing and now sitting in the shade waiting for Myrtle and to see what the verdict is before planning the next phase of the journey. 

Little challenges

Poor Myrtle.  She has a squeaky aircon fan belt and thought I better get it fixed as I have been reluctant to use airconditioning.    I was recommended a good aircon mechanic by lovely Ellen (who used to work at BHS and now in Katherine) who had a cuppa with me yesterday.  He was very kind to offer to fix it today (Saturday) but after helping me eventually to get right fan belts at Repco he found one of the bolts seized  and if he broke the bolt undoing it, it would mean I would be stuck in car park until Toyota opened on Monday as I would have to get part from them.  Anyway I have the names of some guys with garages that will help me next week.   
I am having a great time however sometimes I just get over the whole shower/toilet block with nowhere to put clothes and having to wear thongs, the small van with stuff everywhere, dirty camp kitchens that lazy backpackers don't clean (and who also make noises into the night).  Having dirty and dusty feet.  When having a unpowered site you have to find a power point in the laundry or camp kitchen to recharge phones, laptop etc and generally someone has 6 double adaptors plugged into all of them.  Anyway I have had my vent!  All is good.

Other stuff

All the people one meets along the way makes the trip so interesting.  At Pine Creek my campground neighbours were riding their pushbikes around Australia.  He said he was from Nottingham in England.  They rode their bikes from Shanghai to Singapore and now from Darwin, Litchfield and were on their way to Katherine via Edith Falls.  Then they were going to head west to do the Gibb River Road.   They left Pine Creek a couple of hours before me and I passed them on the highway and then as I was driving out of Edith Falls I saw them  only about a 5 ks out of the falls!   They are nearly as fast as Myrtle.
I met another woman travelling alone.  She was heading back to Darwin where she is living.  She showed me her van and when she pulled back the material over the door way her van was decorated like Mandy's hippy shop in Beechworth.  There was candles and oils and decorations hanging down.  She even had little pot plants she carried around of basil, mint etc.   I also saw some people at Maysie's cafe in Pine Creek that I had seen 3 times before in my travels.  Maysie's must be an a bit of well known spot.  It is decked out in 50s/60s retro.  Anyway I better get some sleep.  I don't always sleep well in crowded caravan parks.  I love the ones in national parks and free spots.

some photos

view from Ubirr  - looked so much more stunning there - the smoke is in the distance. 

Rock art at Ubirr

Looking over the plains from the big rock lookout at Ubirr - they were burning off in the distance


Battery going flat so more photos later!

Kakadu adventures

On Tuesday, after a night at the Jabiru campground (and a lovely spinach and feta quiche from the bakery for breakfast ) I drove to Ubir (please be patient and I will get brochures later and check spelling of the names).  On the way I went to the cultural centre to find out more about the area.  This place has so much amazing rock art and rock formations.  You can climb up to the top of this rock and look out over the green plains and some wet lands.  The rock art is very old (some I think over 20-40,000 years and some more recent) and they also painted over the art and did more art over the top.  Sort of like updating a news bulletin!  It was hot and windy and nearly got blown off the rock.  Near there is  Border Cafe and I have heard that they have great Thai food.  People usually order their meal, look at the sunset and come back and pick it up.  Sounds like a great idea.  I didn't do the sunset but it was a stunning view anyway!
 Kakadu is an amazing place (even though some "Darwinians" call it "Kakadon't").   It is constantly changing - even though some people might think it is just the wet and the dry season  they say it is really 6 seasons because it changes constantly as the wet lands go down and it gets very dry towards the build up  - different growth seasons for plants etc and the bird and animal life move in the different areas depending on  what is happening.
More later I better check on the laundry (currently in Katherine).  Laundry done then off to a mechanics to check on airconditioner in the car.  It makes a squealy noise.  He said if I got the belts he would fix it tomorrow so that is good.  Then back to the park and forgot that I was also defrosting my little fridge!  Water everywhere on the floor.  Well I am Aeroguarded up as I am near a lagoon at the Springvale Homestead.  Heaps of backpackers here.  Not that I am against backpackers!  I was parked near a few tents that had heaps of empty bottles lined up so I moved along a bit.  It is very nice but I am sure there are heaps of midgies and mozzies!
Anyway where was I.  That's right back in Kakadu.
After Ubir I went to Norlangie on the way to Cooinda.  There is more rock art and walks there and also a beautiful lake Annabang (remember I will do correct names later).  I was so hot and tired when I got to Cooinda Lodge camp ground.  It is just so busy there as all the Yellow water boat tours leave from there.  I lined up in a queue at reception and then found out it was $46 a night powered site!  I said I would think about it and thought the pool looked good so turned around to book and another queue.  Then the guy sent me to the wrong site!  Well eventually I got settled in and also bumped into Sandra and Bob (campground neighbours from Darwin).  I had a swim then a drink with them and then salad in the van as so many bities around.  The next day I was lucky enough to get on an Animal Tracks tour that a woman i talked to at the wave pool in Darwin recommended.   It was expensive but she said definitely worth it.   It left at 1 pm and went till 9 pm.   Rachel was an excellent guide and we went in a open air 4WD bus to a buffalo farm (buffalos are now just kept in one farm with electric fences as the rest were culled in the 1980's as they were ruining the landscape and damaging levy banks and some fresh and salt water areas being joined up)  They are an introduced species and there were about 300,000 of them.  It was an enviromental issue but also the USA who were importing our beef said they wouldn't do it if there was a chance of buffalo contaminating our beef cattle.  So something was done about it when it became an economic issue!
Anyway it was an amazing experience.  We picked up Patsy, an aboriginal woman who accompanied us to show us where bush tucker was and we had to get hands on and search for it.
We got muscles, water chestnuts and tasted ants.  Each time they do the tour they search for what ever is in season and what they are allowed to eat culturally as there are laws on what should be eaten at different seasons .  We had dinner cooked in the traditional way on hot coals and in paperbark and leaves and watched the sunset over the wet lands and listened to thousands of geese.
We also had wild geese and barramundi and damper cooked on the coals.   It was such a wonderful experience and everyone enjoyed it.   I would do it again and recommend it to anyone.  You got to hear about the way the bush people/traditional owners live.  Some great stories were told by Patsy.   I was very tired by the end of the day as looking for bush tucker is hard work and I would starve if I depended on it as I didn't find a single muscle or a waterchesnut!  There were kids on the trip and they all found things!!!  So many wonderful memories of the evening.
I camped down the road the road that night at a national park camp ground ($10 no power) but shower and toilets and a beautiful spot near a lagoon.  I went for a short walk near the lagoon but kept thinking of those crocs! 
I did a boat cruise next day around Yellow Water and saw water lilies, birds and crocs.
I think the Northern Territory is a wonderful place!    I really can't describe in words who it gets in your skin!  Well figuratively and literally (with all the bugs and dirt!)

I drove out of Kakadu thinking that it would be great to visit again and would be better in a 4WD as there are places that would be great that Myrtle couldn't get to (sorry Myrtle you are a great van and I do appreciate you! but you do have limitations.)

I stayed in Pine Creek on the way back to Katherine.  A funny little place.  I had a bacon and egg sandwich at Maysie's for breakfast then back to Katherine (and a visit into Edith Falls on way - a really nice place for a swim).
More later - getting eaten by mozzies at the camp kitchen.

Kakadu

Arrived in Jabiru last night.  I really enjoyed Darwin but nice to be out of a packed, busy caravan park and away from the noisy planes.  It is so peaceful out here.  I went for a walk this morning  around to the Jabiru bakery for fresh bread and now ready for a day looking around.  I am off to look at the rock art today. Running low on power on the laptop.  Staying at unpowered site - so much less expensive here. 

Still Darwin

On Friday night I went to the deckchair cinema with Sandra my new camp ground friend.  We went to see "Where do we go now" (a film set in Lebanon).  It was a great night.  I loved the movie and sitting in a deckchair under the stars was such a wonderful way to enjoy a night out.  They have dinner to buy by a local caterer and wine and icecream so it is a real social event.  We even had fireworks to watch at the beginning as it is a long weekend for the Darwin Cup.
It is not easy getting a good night sleep in the camp ground.  It is very busy here being peak season and some people near me were up at 5.00 am packing to go and during the night you may hear a plane or cars and being near the toilet block there are always people walking past.  I was going to see if I could get a job and maybe find out Tuesday (as it is a long weekend here) but I am a bit over the camp ground and I don't know how I would go here for 3 weeks as I have already been here for nearly a week.
Anyway yesterday I went to the Botanical Gardens for a wander - they have an amazing community vegie garden there built in a terrace style.  Heaps of tomatoes and eggplant and pumpkins.  I then went to the wave lagoon which is at the waterfront.  It was fun and you get a floating ring or a boogie board.   Then I went by myself to the deckchair cinema again!   I saw "Take this Waltz".  It wasn't as good as the movie the night before.  I had a Indian meal at the cinema and it was so good and then icecream!   Anyway I think I will be heading off to Kakadu soon and bush again so no opportunities for eating out or movies then!

More Darwin

a didge guy at the Mindil market last night

I caught the bus into town this morning so Myrtle could relax at the camp ground.  $5 pass for a day on the buses.  I went to an employment agency then had such good latte and muffin at Four Birds cafe and then a bus out to the Museum and Art Gallery.  A great exhibition of Cyclone Tracey (24 Dec 1974).   
Back into town on the bus and a look around and then back to the camp ground to put my feet up.  Very warm this afternoon.  There isn't too many people in the main street as I have been told they have built a huge shopping centre out at Casurina (sp?) and everyone goes out there.  I think there is enough big shopping centres in Australia and they are all the same.   I quiet liked the shops in the City Centre. So many eating places.  I think everyone eats and drinks a lot up here!
I would like to go to the wave pool, deckchair cinema and hire a bike.  Will see how I go.

Discovering Darwin

Mindil Beach at Sunset - I wanted to tell the woman to go away!

Everyone goes to the beach from the market to watch the sunset

Lunch, a haircut and then a reflexology foot massage, followed by Mindil Beach sunset market.  A pretty good day!   I bumped into my caravan park neighbours at the market - I hadn't spoken to them before this but noticed them standing near me when I was watching the sunset so had a chat to them.   There were soooooo many people at the markets and on the beach.  (Nobody swimming though - mmmm I wonder why!    Also went to the WW Oil Tunnels - so much history here and the affects of the war on Darwin.    Also saw the memorial to the Telegraph link from the Eighteen Seventies  (I think)   Interesting as I had been in to see some Telegraph Stations on the way up the Stuart Highway.   The moon is amazing tonight.